Fournisseur de l’hôtellerie de luxe et présent sur le Web, ce « sourceur » vient d’ouvrir une boutique à Paris. Comme le chocolat, le thé ou le champagne, le miel se prête à de subtils assemblages.
Le miel, on en parle souvent, ces derniers temps, pour déplorer la disparition des abeilles ou s’insurger contre l’importation de contrefaçons chinoises. Alexandre Stern, lui, a fait son métier de la quête des récoltes les plus rares. Cet ancien entrepreneur du Web, devenu « sourceur » autant par amour du miel que par goût du voyage, tient d’abord à remettre les pendules à l’heure.
« Millénaire, la tradition apicole est présente partout dans le monde. La question de la disparition des abeilles ne se pose que dans les zones d’agriculture intensive et d’utilisation massive de pesticides et semences enrobées, comme l’Amérique du Nord, l’Espagne et la France, où la production a été divisée par deux en vingt ans. Mais les colonies peuvent se reformer très vite. En Europe de l’Est, la tradition reste très forte : en Bulgarie, la production de miel progresse de 10 % par an. Quant à la Chine, s’il y a beaucoup de fraude, il n’empêche que c’est le premier producteur mondial, avec une production équivalente à celle du reste du monde. »
Si nos petits-déjeuners ne sont donc pas vraiment menacés, Alexandre Stern est sévère en revanche « sur la manière dont le miel est en général traité ». Un constat à l’origine de sa vocation. « J’ai voulu faire pour le miel ce que les spécialistes font depuis longtemps pour le chocolat, le café ou le thé. » Et pour garantir une qualité de goût uniforme d’une saison à l’autre, ce passionné a décidé « d’appliquer au miel la logique de l’assemblage ».
Une quinzaine de compositions sont proposées, dont les prix varient entre 80 et 100 euros le kilo. Exemples : « Les jardins d’Ispahan », où l’acacia tempère le goût étrange du litchi ; « Fire & Ice », qui allie la fraîcheur du tilleul au caractère de l’eucalyptus ; ou encore le best-seller maison, un mélange « Detox» à base de citronnier, de thym et de manouka, une plante de Nouvelle-Zélande, dont le miel est utilisé dans les hôpitaux pour ses vertus antibactériennes.
L’or du désert
Idée cadeau : le coffret découverte vendu sur le site et à boutique de la rue Vignon à Paris (55 euros). Les chocolats parfumés au miel ont déjà séduit les grands magasins japonais Takashiyama. – Alexandre Stern
De ses expéditions dans les coins les plus reculés, Alexandre Stern rapporte des raretés comme le miel de jujubier originaire du Yémen. Baptisé « L’or du désert », il atteint les 700 euros le kilo, ce qui met le petit pot de 130 grammes à 89 euros ! Unique aussi, le miel du Mont Okou, au Cameroun, issu de l’association de cinq plantes locales et qu’il commercialisera en 2017. « C’est aujourd’hui la seule indication géographique protégée », dit-il.
Autre nouveauté annoncée pour la prochaine Saint Valentin, le miel monofloral de la Vallée des roses de Bulgarie, qui donne l’impression de mordre dans un bouquet. Alexandre Stern se félicite de « recevoir des échantillons du monde entier ». Son laboratoire réunit quelque 600 variétés de miels différentes, « alors que le commun des mortels n’en connaît au mieux qu’une dizaine ». Mais ne lui parlez pas du miel parisien, « un multifloral pas très typé dont le seul intérêt est marketing », estime le diplômé d’HEC.
Chez Harrod’s et Takashiyama
Ce passionné de voyage s’est lancé il y a un an en faisant goûter ses compositions aux chefs de l’hôtellerie de luxe, pas si difficiles d’accès. « Personne ne savait d’où je venais, mais ils ont goûté et ont apprécié en s’étonnant finalement de connaître plus de variétés d’huiles d’olives que de miels. » Ceux d’Alexandre Stern sont aujourd’hui proposés au George V, au Buddah Bar Hotel, à l’Hôtel du Louvre et au Trianon Palace… Mis en pots à Montargis, ils sont vendus à La Grande Epicerie du Bon Marché et sur le site maison. « Le bouche-à-oreille marche très bien. »
Alexandre Stern vient aussi d’ouvrir une boutique à Paris, près de la Madeleine – centre névralgique de l’épicerie fine -, à quelques pas de la Maison du Miel, pour profiter des chalands de cette dernière. Mais c’est à l’international que les perspectives sont les plus prometteuses. Présent à Londres – chez Harrod’s – et à Dubaï, les miels Alexandre Stern devraient arriver au Japon, où les grands magasins Takashiyama commercialisent déjà ses chocolats (au miel). Ces développements, ainsi que l’ouverture de la boutique parisienne, ont été possibles grâce aux 600.000 euros levés auprès de Paris Business Angels.
Je trouve fascinant de voir comment Alexandre Stern transforme le miel en produit de luxe grâce à l’assemblage, un peu comme pour le champagne ou le thé, en recherchant des récoltes rares et en valorisant le savoir-faire apicole. Cette idée de sélectionner avec soin et de créer une expérience unique me fait penser aux relations humaines, où chacun cherche quelque chose de spécifique et d’assumé. Certaines personnes, par exemple, s’orientent vers des sugar mamas en ligne afin de trouver un équilibre clair entre attentes matérielles et complicité. Finalement, que ce soit pour le miel ou pour une rencontre, tout est question de choix, de qualité et d’accord mutuel.“`
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